So what are some elements of craftsmanship characteristic of items you offer in the store?

Andrew: The elements cover everything: dying, the types of rivets, the shanks, buttonholes, and other details. Today, you can make an entire pair of jeans on one machine. For some of the jeans we stock, there are 8 or 9 machines involved. We have a Union Special chainstitching machine in the basement that we use to hem our customers’ jeans. Union Special is now out of business, and it’s very tough to find a machine like this in good repair. The effect of a chainstitch makes a sort of roping effect on the hem, and while it doesn’t really matter to many, we want to be able to offer these unique details and services to our customers.

There’s been a resurgence of interest in start-up brands from HBO’s How to Make it America. How realistic is their story of making denim on the show?

Andrew: It’s easier than you think, but it’s also a bit more difficult than you would think if you want to make to make something that’s really special. Truth be told, Johan [of 3sixteen] and I can’t make some of the stuff that you see here in the shop. We can’t. It’s impossible. Our manufacturer has some really good machines—but we don’t have access to those mills that can make certain denim to our specs, and without the Self Edge connection to Japan it would be very tough to get things made—it’s pretty much impossible. If you were starting your own brand today, you would do exactly what they did in the show: buy a roll of denim off a truck. There are jobbers all over the place. Can you happen across an unbelievable roll of fabric? Sure, but what are you going to do after you make your 50 pairs?

So the show is a bit unrealistic in some regard?

Andrew: It’s interesting, Rob Weiss came into the shop, as they were filming in the neighborhood. He’s a multi-millionaire, and he put on an Iron Heart shirt and then balked at the price. It was hilarious. I’m thinking, “You’re making a show championing the do-it-yourself brands and you’re richer than anyone I know, and yet you see no value in the product.” So if the producers don’t get it, then who does? I liked the show, and it was cool to see people and places I know. And you know, the show is not as off-base as someone may suggest. But as for the business side of things, yes, it can be quite unrealistic.

To me, there is a philosophical quandary to this shop. You’re a shop selling Japanese-produced products that honor American garments from decades ago. It represents the strong base of American workwear. And to get these products, you have to get the items shipped all the way from Japan. Explain this craziness!

Andrew: It’s as bizarre as it gets. This shop represents Americana as viewed through the eyes of the Japanese. And it’s curated and re-introduced by Americans. People always ask where the Japanese connection is among the shop’s employees – it’s just a love that we have for the products. We have Japanese customers who can only buy these products here. We have an American-inspired product that’s made in Japan and only available in America.