Is 3sixteen constructed in the US?

Andrew: Well, we make our items here so we can oversee the entire process carefully. When we started our denim program, we wanted to learn, grow, and develop our products in the US, but the best materials are made in Japan. Thus, we elected to bring our denim in from Japan and construct it locally.

There is a draw to selvedge because it has imperfections in the weave, right?

Andrew: Yes. Japanese denim is known for its imperfections. The Japanese have a term called “wabi sabi,” which refers to the beauty that is found in impermanence and imperfection. We see that a lot in the denim that Japan produces; selvedge denim generally takes longer to make and is inefficient to produce. It can yield greater inconsistencies as the process does not employ modern production techniques. But it is in these imperfections that you get a truly special textile.

What are the differences between your selvedge products found here and those found in a big box store?

Andrew: You can weave selvedge denim in China or Indionisia. They are replicating the process and look of selvedge denim—the actual properties of a 30-inch wide panel—with finished edges—but without any of the artisanal details that define the selvedge denim that you’d find in our store.

What is the comparison in durability of denim?

Andrew: Well, selvedge is not necessarily about durability. It can be, but it’s not necessarily connected. A major reason that people prefer selvedge is that it takes longer to weave it than cheaper denim, and it has a history behind it. The desire often reaches beyond durability.

Is there more of a narrative appreciation?

Andrew: Yes. That appreciation is based on where the denim comes from, and the philosophies of the companies to respect and honor the past while experimenting and pushing boundaries, all while making garments with a high level of detail. In many cases, it has a much more beautiful fade, which is a unique element of selvedge. On our racks, each pair fades differently based on the type of indigo and the process of dying the yarn. If I were to show you which jeans age dramatically, Flat Head comes to mind. They rope dye their indigo, which means that the core of the thread stays white. With other jeans, it may take a few months to see wear, but their denim fades faster. You may see a $40 pair of Levi’s age in a few months, but for a discerning customer, he or she will notice the quality of the aging of the denim.