If a worker’s jeans got old, did he just get a new pair in those days?

Andrew: No, they’d patch them up. In our SF store, we have a vintage Singer Darning machine to repair denim the old fashioned way. It’s a really hard-to-find machine… back in the day, if that was your one pair of work jeans that was damaged, you’d patch them up, you’d darn them or you’d press in a new rivet yourself. Nowadays, people don’t repair their jeans anymore. If they get old, people toss them out.

That being said, as far as construction and longevity go, what these Japanese companies are producing now is superior to what you’d find at a cheaper big-box place. To them, these clothes aren’t trendy. It’s not this “return to manhood” that people talk about in fashion. It’s functional; it’s long-lasting; and it represents an era of Americana.

What does the term “Americana” mean in the context of what you do at Self-Edge?

Andrew: For us, it’s not limited to the types of garments we offer. It’s referenced in the books that we carry, the magazine selection, and even Kiya’s music tastes. Much of what you see here is western and workwear-influenced, but Kiya has a vision to push this shop’s offerings into casual wear, or what people would wear when they weren’t working. So, that means rayon shirts, and other things that people were wearing after their work day was over

What period does this reflect?

Andrew: As early as the 20s or 30s to as late as the 60s. Obviously, there have been a lot of fashions that have come and gone during that era, and in the shop, you’ll see military and Western influences—and a workwear influence, of course.

How do customers respond to the high price points on the extremely-detailed shirts?

Andrew: Customers are mostly respectful, however there are times when people respond with a question like, “Are you serious?” But I welcome the opportunity to discuss the pieces with those customers and let them know exactly why they cost so much to produce.

How have Japanese customers’ consumption habits affected marketing in both America and Japan?

Andrew: The Japanese discovered when buying and deconstructing vintage garments that the only way to properly remake those items would be to get the actual machines. In terms of research and development, and when thinking of how to progress past the vintage quality, the Japanese kept working at the process until they really nailed it. What they can accomplish now is far better than when they started. A lot of the Japanese denim companies started out making jeans that were in homage to Levi’s.