Kiya Babzani is the owner of the Self Edge store in San Francisco and the face of Self Edge on forums as well. He often says that, “Denim doesn’t lie,” which is a succinct summation what makes a pair of raw selvedge denim so alluring. When Andrew and I began to discuss denim, he relayed that quote from Kiya and further explained how there is a pride that a discerning customer begins to exude when acquiring pieces from these detail-obsessed Japanese brands. I learned firsthand that the attention to minute elements of clothing becomes contagious, and after I left the interview and reexamined my wardrobe staples, I found them haphazardly produced and inferior to the garments sold at Self Edge. At the shop, the staff is quite proud of the Japanese products they sell, which—whether its evident or not—forms a bit of a paradox. After all, the shop boasts a focus on Americana and garments synonymous with the strength and freedom that symbolized the USA during the time period that the shop honors—the late 40s, 50s, and 60s. So, in a distinctly American shop that honors an American tradition, the garments are produced in … Japan?

Kiya has spent more than a decade learning about the production, manufacturing, and marketing of Japanese denim, so he is well-qualified to speak about the story of Self Edge’s offerings of Japanese-made homages to American workwear. During my interview with him, he spoke candidly about the obsessive tendencies of Japanese Americana collectors, the fiercely competitive Japanese jean manufacturers and their attempts to one-up each other, and the Japanese obsession with Americana and the spirit of rebellion.

Freshness is proud to present in depth interviews with both Andrew and Kiya, and we are confident that after you finish reading this feature, you’ll get a taste of what it’s like to be blissfully and willingly compulsive about a wardrobe item that is unparalleled in its connection to its wearer—good ol’ American blue jeans… that are produced and manufactured in Japan.